Myanmar Motor Musings

Millions of Motors
More people ride bikes (both motorized and non-motorized) here than anywhere else we've been. Every morning we bike around the busy palace walls along with hordes of people on their way to work, school, etc. The main roads of Mandalay have bike lanes, but these can be hectic as they are also lanes for parking, turning left and going slow as well as riding the wrong way should someone feel the urge.


Side Saddle
Many women, men and children ride on the bike of bikes. It is most precarious for women, especially if they are carrying children on their lap as they are usually wearing ta mien (a full length skirt made of a loop of fabric and wrapped around the waste like a towel. Similar to sarongs in Indonesia/Malaysia and malongs in the Philippines). As a result of the ta mien the women choose to sit side saddle. It is quite apparent that this throws off the balance of the bicycles since most cyclists with passengers swerve often and pedal slowly. Men often wear longgyis and as a result they too are often riding side saddle.

Perhaps one of the most interesting aspects of side saddle riding is the starting from a complete stop process. It appears that it is quite difficult to start peddaling with a side saddled passenger on the back. Thus, the pedaler begins riding the bike and the passenger runs behind and then jumps on the bike. Try doing this while wearing a full length skirt and carrying and infant.


Gasoline
One thing odd about Myanmar is the lack of gas stations. It took me a while to notice this, but once I did, it made me wonder. Where does everyone get their gas?

As it turns out, the government rations gasoline to motorcycle and car owners. There are a few government run gas stations, which often have lines of people waiting for their share. People wait in line, as the price of gas is relatively cheap at approximately 1500 Kyat per gallon (a little under $1). As it was explained to me, the amount of gas rationed depends on your vehicle.

For motorcycles, one receives 8 gallons of petrol per month and no more than 1 gallon per fill up. Cars receive 30 gallons per month and no more than 8 gallons per day.

All vehicle owners carry around a logbook stating how much fuel they bought and when. If you want more than your allotted amount, then you head to the black market, located just down the street. Along many highways (such as the highway between Pyin Oo Lwin and Mandalay) there are many shops selling gasoline out of large drums using makeshift pumps. The black market price is more than double the price of the government gas, but as long as one can afford it one can buy as many gallons as one wishes!